Why Cauliflower Wings Started Appearing on Every Bar Menu

Not that I’m complaining! Plus a simple and delicious recipe for making your own delicious cauliflower wings at home.

Alicia Kennedy
Tenderly
Published in
4 min readJan 27, 2020

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Cauliflower Wings at La Penúltima. Photo: Alicia Kennedy

I’ve been trying to figure out the origin of the cauliflower wing as a bar food staple to no avail. In the early 2010s, vegan bloggers had begun to figure out that hunks of the vegetable could be breaded, fried, and dunked in hot sauce just like the tofu and tempeh wings of yore, with PETA putting out their recipe way back in 2012. The folks behind Brooklyn vegan restaurant Toad Style, who’ve recently brought their cauliflower wings back onto the menu, tell me they remember seeing them at a Super Bowl party in 2013 — it turned them from Buffalo tempeh lovers into cauliflower believers.

The dish’s true foremother must be recognized as the classic Gobi Manchurian, a brilliantly sticky staple of Indian-Chinese cuisine in which the breaded and fried cauliflower (or gobi) is covered in a sweet, spicy and tangy sauce that hits every good and joyous flavor note right on the head. In the Americanized bar food version, of course, the wings are usually rather simply spiced, like their Buffalo cousin. Yet the brilliant satisfaction of a flavorful sauce giving way to slight crunch, and then a hearty bite, remains.

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Alicia Kennedy
Tenderly

I’m a food writer from Long Island based in San Juan, Puerto Rico. Subscribe to my weekly newsletter on food issues: aliciakennedy.substack.com