Tenderly

Vintage Veg

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Vintage Veg

1981’s ‘World-of-the-East Vegetarian Cooking’ taught Western home cooks how to use spices other than salt and pepper

Madhur Jaffrey is the queen of Indian home cooking, a title she’s held for quite some time thanks to the numerous influential cookbooks she’s published. I have so many of her books that I’ve not actually used all of them, including World of the East Vegetarian Cooking. …

Vintage Veg

Revisting a 2003 vegan cookbook from the iconic organic, vegan restaurant that once stood in the East Village

Out of all the vegan restaurants in New York City lost to time, I miss Angelica Kitchen most of all. There is a specific kind of mood, a certain tone in the weather, that can stir up a desire in me that could only be sated by a macrobiotic tempeh…

Vintage Veg

Ginny Callan’s 1987 cookbook takes a seasonal, local approach to meatless cuisine that’s still refreshing over 30 years later

Ginny Callan ran the Horn of the Moon café in Montpelier, Vermont, from 1977 to 1990 — quite a run for a vegetarian space outside a big city, and she has two cookbooks to show for it: Horn of the Moon Cookbook: Recipes from Vermont’s Renowned Vegetarian Restaurant and Beyond…

Vintage Veg

How ‘The Second Seasonal Political Palate’ helped me find a different way to write about food

When I found The Second Seasonal Political Palate at Kitchen Arts & Letters in New York City many years back, it felt like a treasure. I had only recently begun to collect and research vintage vegetarian and vegan cookbooks, seeking a political through line, and I knew the out-of-print early…

Vintage Veg

The 1981 book argues for a fanatical, essentialist, white veganism that the movement has thankfully started to move past

“Do you perceive the veal floating invisibly inside every glass of milk?” asks Mark Mathew Braunstein in the preface to the revised 1993 edition of his 1981 book Radical Vegetarianism:

A dairy cow is not killed immediately, but condemning her to cruel conditions might be worse than saving her skin…

Vintage Veg

‘While the world’s experts talked only of scarcity, I had just discovered the incredible waste built into the American meat-centered diet’

Whenever people ask me about how veganism got to where it is today, my well-rehearsed speech begins, “In 1971, Frances Moore Lappé’s Diet for a Small Planet was released…” What became a best-selling book was born as a one-page handout in the late 1960s, not long after Lappé had graduated…

Vintage Veg

‘Mexican Vegetarian Cooking’ is dated, but we have to know where we’ve been to see where we’re going

When it comes to plant-based cooking, there is sometimes as much to learn from a cookbook of questionable contemporary quality as there is from one that provides insight that takes one’s cooking to new heights. The recent history of meatless cooking has undergone such transformation in recent years — while…

Vintage Veg

Edward Espe Brown’s 1997 cookbook shows that there has always been a way to live and eat well without dead animals

“Food is precious,” begins a chapter in Tomato Blessings and Radish Teachings: Recipes & Reflections by Edward Espe Brown. “We don’t always remember until not much is left. Then it is obvious. Food is an everyday matter, until it disappears. Then we know it’s terribly important. The simplest dishes can…

Vintage Vegvoi

Originally published in 1976, “From a Monastery Kitchen” is full of simple, seasonal, reassuring vegetable recipes

“Monasteries have kitchens,” reads the foreword by Elise Boulding to the cookbook From a Monastery Kitchen: The Classic Natural Foods Cookbook, “and monks have to eat.” Indeed they do, but like Boulding, I’d never thought about the logistics of that too much, even though I’d gone to a high school…

Tenderly

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