How to Make Bundevara, Serbia’s Simple and Satisfying Pumpkin Dessert
Locally-grown ingredients are sold in abundance in Belgrade, where I discovered the magic of this “accidentally vegan” delight
Belgrade is a beautiful city. It’s full of white-painted buildings so ornately decorated they look like wedding cakes; unique sculptural monuments; and fountains. Most beautiful of all, to me, are the markets full of local produce that you can find in every part of the city.
Belgradians believe in fruit and vegetables. These market stalls are carefully piled high with in-season food, sold by the people who grow it. Likely as not, the farmers still have soil under their fingernails as they hand you your kilos of plums, still with the gentle bloom on, the freshest sweet corn and several different types of tomatoes.
There is an etiquette to market shopping. Never touch those plums, much less go rifling through for the best ones. They are all the best, and that misty skin proves they were picked this morning. The stall holder will hand them to you. Also, never ask for a small amount. This is Go Big or Go Home country — you cannot ask for one cucumber; you’ll receive one kilo. If you insist, you’ll get it, along with a refusal to accept money for such a tiny amount and a…