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Vegans of Color
How Compton Vegan Helps Nourish South L.A.
Lemel Durrah, the chef and owner of Compton Vegan, on being his own boss and serving a community that has lacked access to delicious, healthy food
Staying healthy in food desert—an area with a lack of supermarkets, fresh produce, and access to non-processed food—is no easy task. A 2010 study showed that in South L.A., there were only only 60 supermarkets to service approximately 1.3 million residents (the same number of supermarkets that service half as many residents in affluent neighborhoods in West L.A.).
“If I’m not providing vegan food, there is no option for the city,” says Lemel Durrah, the chef and owner of Compton Vegan. “It’s important for me to continue on the marathon that I’m on. It’s important for me now, not just to keep my business going, but because as a kid growing up, I didn’t have vegan options.” While there many residents working to improve access to healthier foods in South L.A. neighborhoods, there are still many hurdles to overcome.
Durrah spoke with Tenderly about the empowerment of becoming his own boss, his dreams of bringing vegan food to Compton, and shares his advice on staying on your own path in the face of adversity.
Tenderly: What is your ethnic and cultural background? Where did you grow up?
Lemel Durrah: I’m black. I grew up in Compton, CA. I was a military kid, so I’ve seen different states. Texas, Virginia, and I lived in Germany all before the fourth grade. I went to college in Alabama, at Tuskegee [University]. So I’ve seen a little bit of everywhere.
But Compton’s home?
Absolutely.
What kinds of foods did you eat growing up? Do you have any memorable meals you ate on holidays or special occasions?
All the same traditional foods that are popular in America. The turkey, the ham, all the other stuff at Thanksgiving. The ribs, links and whatnot for Christmas and Fourth of July.
