Georgian Mushroom Khinkali, the Dumpling From a Country Full of Surprises

The country of Georgia is a gorgeous place to visit if you’re able, but the next best option is making these cheerful vegan mushroom dumplings

Genevieve D'Jones
Published in
5 min readJan 2, 2020

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Tblisi from the mountain top. Photos: Genevieve D’Jones

On a mountain overlooking Tblisi, an imposing statue of a woman towers. In one outstretched hand, she holds a bowl. In the other, a sword. I asked my Ana, my interpreter, about her. “That is Mother Georgia,” she replied. “She represents the people of Georgia. First, she offers you the bowl of wine. If you refuse her hospitality, she kill.” She shrugs with alarming nonchalance. “Here, it is normal.” I make a mental note to accept any and all hospitality offered to me.

Fortunately, even as a vegan, this isn’t difficult in Georgia. They understand plant-based food and offer it in most places to eat. Just ask for “fast” food — not junk food but the opposite, very healthy, simple dishes without animal products, made for people on religious fasts. They use local, in-season food: walnuts, aubergines (eggplant), beans, mushrooms and pomegranate featured a lot when I was visiting in the winter.

Tbilisi is a beautiful, culturally vibrant city. It has very wide streets, lined with glass skyscrapers, banks of tower blocks, and old traditional…

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